The guide’s name was Robin. His history, as a Nepalese Gurkha born in Myanmar, soon became a separate list. As we learned of specific flowers, herbs, and shrubs, we were also linking them to events from his life. Danson, Eggplant, Fig.
About gooseberries, he asked us, “Would you like to try one? You will not like it. But you will get addicted to it. I eat 20 per day.” By the end of the first morning, we had each made a gooseberry joke. Hazelnut, Jasmine.
Lunch, shared with a family Robin knew along the way, consisted of chapatis and Nepalese curries. Our hosts explained that the Kalaw area has become a major enclave for the "Burmese Nepalese," who now number roughly half a million. Lemon grass. Lentil. Mint. Oak.
Robin pointed out Papaya, Peanut, Pennywort, Potato, and Prickly Pear. He told us of ancestors coming to Burma as soldiers during various waves of British occupations here. His turban made it easy for us to picture him as part of a long line of recruits.We answered with stories of our own. One of us had hiked this in this area before, although with very different guides. Three of us had been friends more than 35 years. We had walked together on four continents. This time, as we trekked across Shan State, we re-bonded over several striking new species.
By the end of the three-day walk, our list included 38 items. Of course beans, garlic, ginger, and rice were part of it, along with cauliflower, celery, chili, and coffee. But sesame?! Who even knew how it grew?
Robin called our attention to trees – tamarind, tangerine, tea, and teak – as well as trumpet flower and turmeric. Not to mention datura, fennel, galenga, and hibiscus (“say what?” we said). By the time we came across the watercress, nearly the entire alphabet had been accounted for.
