Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Pindaya is Polycultural

The hilltop plantations near Pindaya consist of pagodas. Trees there aren’t quite outnumbered by temples, but the count may be close. Pindaya’s polyculture makes this part of Shan State a prime place for photographers with wide-angle lenses.

It’s not just the pinnacles that arrest the eye. Sharply plotted terraces and covered flights of steps civilize their way up the gentle slopes. Varicolored checkerboards extend to the horizon. 

Pindaya is also known for a local legend that explains the existence of the town’s most famous attraction, the Shwe U Min Cave. According to the story, seven bathing princesses were sealed up in the cave by a giant spider, only to be rescued by a passing prince. 

The legend unsettled us as we read it aloud before visiting the cave. We thought the prince hadn’t really done the princesses a favor. Not only did he turn out to be one of those cocky conquerors that you often find in mythology, but he emerged as a womanizer to boot. We liked his personality less than the spider’s.

That mindset even tainted our circuit through the Buddha-filled cave. At first, we thought we were seeing penis heads at the tips of some of the long slender fingers on the images. The light wasn’t perfect, and we didn’t want to stare, but the whole idea made us feel a bit queasy.

I’d gladly have our perceptions corrected. Please write me if you can suggest alternate explanations. Pindaya is too nice a destination to spoil with misunderstandings.